A medieval city surrounded by protective walls, Lucca draws opera lovers making their pilgrimage to Puccini’s birthplace. Personally, I was more drawn by the 16th -century Palazzo Boccella, the surprising home to the Lucca Center of Contemporary Art (Lu.C.C.A.). The recipient of both well-recognized and rarely-seen works from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Lu.C.C.A. has created an exhibition of drawings by artists including Calder, de Kooning, Ernst, Kandinsky, Man Ray, Masson, Matta, Mondrian, Moore, Picasso, Richter, Rivera, and Tanguy. The exhibit had an intimate feel, as the scale of both the art and the gallery spaces were modest. As many of the works on paper were preparatory drawings, it gave insight into the minds of the modern masters that created them. I left the exhibit with an impression of Peggy Guggenheim as a supporter of free expression and daring experiments.